The remains of Dholavira....

Day 5 : 3rd Feb, 2016 - Dhordo - Dholavira - Zainabad

The day started very early as it was a long journey of around 600 kms with a detour to Dholavira. So the plan was to reach Dholavira by noon, visit the site , have lunch and reach Zainabad by evening.

It is believed that Dholavira was an important center of trade between settlements in south Gujarat, Sindh, Punjab and western Asia. Many things like animal bones, seals, toys, terracotta jewelry, beads, earthen and bronze vessels were excavated. The excavations also threw light on the drainage and urban planning followed by the Harappans. The site, estimated to be older than the port-city of Lothal, is rectangular in shape consisting of 3 divisions - the citadel, the upper town, the lower town, stadium, bailey and cemetery. Two monsoon channels embraced the settlement - Manhar and Mansar. The citadel consisted of the castle and the bailey. The castle had an impregnable security, towers, gates and drainage. There were a series of reservoirs of which some are exposed now and which might have been used to store water. The reservoirs and wells also have steps to reach the water level. There was also a marketplace for trade.

The eastern reservoir

There is a reservoir at the eastern entrance which looks quite huge and it lies just before the entrance to the castle from the east.

A water outlet near the eastern entrance to the castle

Fine stone object near the eastern entrance

There was a fine stone structure near the eastern entrance and the guide told us that it was a pillar base that was used.

Stone structures near the eastern entrance

Circular rooms

The settlement at the site has been in stages according to ASI and after the late Harappans of stage 6 abandoned the site, the newcomers built these circular rooms. As per the ASI website, the stage 1 built the fortress lying below the castle mound. The foundation of plan laid in stage 1 was the base for the further stages. In stage 2, the defensive wall was strengthened and a residential area came up in the north. The stage 3, divided into 2 stages 3A and 3B, was very creative and important. Bailey and middle town came into existence. The extended residential area was cleared to form a multipurpose ground. Reservoirs were created in south, west and north. Potteries with painted motifs were discovered. When the town of stage 3 had lived most of its life, it was hugely damaged by a catastrophe and repairs were undertaken. The lower town was added and the city walls were extended eastwards. The city had attained its fullest growth. In stage 4, all the salient features were maintained . The famous 10 signed inscription was in use even then. Potteries, weights, beads, seals, gold, silver, copper, ivory, shell, clay and stone items were found in abundance. Stage 5 led to the decline after which the site was deserted. Stage 6 brought ceramic traditions from Sind, Rajasthan, Gujarat and far off north. The city shrank into a smaller town and was now restricted to only the citadel and the middle town. Bricks were no longer used and so was the classical planning. Pottery forms and motifs were used but seals underwent a change . After having lived here for a century, the late Harappans abandoned the site. After stage 6, in stage 7, the circular rooms were built. They had forgotten the classical Harappan fabrics, shapes and designs. Thus the urbanization that began in stage 1 flourished till stage 4 , started to decline in stage 5, underwent a transformation in stage 6 with a feeble revival  became totally deurbanised in stage 7. The site was never occupied after stage 7.

Water harvesting conduit

A drainage or water harvesting conduit

The famous signboard

The multipurpose ground

Residential area

North entrance

The guide told that there might have a gate here

lamp post

The citadel area

An object near the citadel area

The guide told that this might have been a water storage in the bathrooms

A bone at the site

A well or a water storage tank

Water tank

Stairs leading to the water level in the tank

Might have been a royal chamber

A well

It was placed near the well. Might have been used for the pulley to get water from the well.

The pulley rope marks at the well

Inside the well

The bailey area

The place where Manhar and Mansar once existed

Might have been granaries

A large reservoir

Another reservoir

A reservoir with a small connecting gateway to another reservoir

The finely plastered walls of the reservoir

Another reservoir

The place actually left me spell bound. Even as I write this, I am just wondering how might the Harappans have been. They were undoubtedly the most clever and smart people who knew urban planning, sanitation, water conservation, astronomy, creativity and what not. This was the period when Indus Valley Civilization was at its peak. They laid a foundation for all the future generations and yet to are to learn a lot from the great Indus Valley Civilization. 

The site is not much popular with the tourists and I must suggest to include this site in the itinerary to get a feel of the past. Also, the site is almost again getting covered by the soil that flows in. 

The next destination was Zainabad in little Rann of Kutch. The journey of about 300 kms was waiting for us. We reached Zainabad by 7 pm. There are 2 options in little Rann of Kutch - Desert Coursers and Rann Riders - though some other options are opening up. Since Rann Riders was a little expensive for our budget, we had booked Desert Coursers. 

Route:
Dhordo to Dholavira
Go towards Bhuj and then take the highway. Bhujodi -> Anjar -> Bhachau -> Samkhiyali. Left turn after samkhiyali towards Chitrod. Left turn at Chitrod towards Rapar. A sign board is put up. Straight road towards Dholavira. Many villages on the way.
Dholavira to Zainabad
Go towards Rapar. Take left at Rapar before petrol pump which comes on right before city starts(Rapar Pragpar highway). Go straight towards Radhanpur. Take right at circle at Radhanpur towards Zianabad. The route to Zainabad from Radhanpur passes through Shankeshwar.
The road is under construction and a little bad till it joins NH.

Food:
A resort is outside the Dholavira site which offers a thali. INR 100 per person.
Dinner at Desert Coursers was of rotlo, khichdi, kadhi, brinjal okra sabzi, mohanthal and phulka.

Note: INR 300 guide charge at Dholavira.